Technical Resources

INSTALLATION

Most commonly installed by nailing through the tongue into a wood substrate. Gluing (in addition to nailing) may be appropriate in certain situations or for wide-plank products.

SOLID WOOD FLOORING INSTALLATION GUIDELINES (PDF)

Appropriate for all applications including below grade or on a concrete slab substrate. Can be nailed and/or glued.

ENGINEERED WOOD FLOORING INSTALLATION GUIDELINES (PDF)

Installed over a vertical substrate. Tongue and groove profiles are nailed in the tongue, similar to flooring (a square channel reveal may make nails partially visible). Shiplap profile is typically nailed in the face of the board. Various profiles available, inquire for options and details.

THINCLAD INTERIOR CLADDING ILLUSTRATED GUIDELINES (PDF)

INTERIOR WOOD WALL CLADDING INSTALLATION GUIDELINES (PDF)

Installation is similar to interior cladding, except that proper techniques for water and moisture management must be utilized.

EXTERIOR SIDING INSTALLATION GUIDELINES (PDF)

NWFA INSTALLATION GUIDELINES (PDF)

NWFA INSTALLATION APPENDICES (PDF)

NWFA ORNAMENTAL FLOORS (PDF)

REDWOOD LUMBER PATTERNS (PDF)

REDWOOD SIDING PATTERNS AND APPLICATIONS (PDF)

HOW TO INSTALL CEDAR SIDING (PDF)

USDA WOOD HANDBOOK (PDF)

AWS INSTALLATION STANDARDS (PDF)

WOODOLOGY

Once installed, quality engineered wood will be difficult to distinguish from solid wood (usually the finish, and how the planks lay together will be the signals). With our thick wear layers it can also be sanded and refinished. Engineered planks are great when your project lends itself to a pre-finished product and interior cladding. Engineered wood boasts increased stability and is well-suited for below-grade installations, a variety of subfloors, and radiant heat environments. It also affords the option of a floating installation.

Solid wood lends itself well to site-finishing, and will provide the option to sand & refinish several times. We recommend solid, site-finished wood for most flooring applications for an optimal finish and a more tailored result. The thicker a solid wood flooring product, the less prone it will be to cupping, warping, etc.

Not all engineered wood is created equally. Anthology provides engineered products with only hefty wear layers (typically 4 to 6mm thick) so you can refinish if needed.Our engineered products utilize a quality FSC-certified new wood birch plywood substrate whenever possible for a sustainable, smooth, and stable product.

This is a quick-reference for comparing how many times you can refinish flooring products. The thicker the solid wood (or wood wear layer) is above the tongue, the more potential there is for sanding & refinishing, and therefore the longer potential lifespan and better value for your investment. Once the tongue is reached in sanding, the grooves can no longer lock the wood in place, and it's probably time for a new floor.

Use the Flame Spread Index of the species to help evaluate the wood for your application. This typically will only apply to commercial interiors, and the majority of the woods we work with are within the class C range for commercial use. We do not perform testing of our individual products.

AMERICAN WOOD COUNCIL: FLAME SPREAD PERFORMANCE (PDF)

TONGUE AND GROOVE (no bevel): Our standard for most solid flooring products.  This is a good choice when you will be site-finishing flooring, or using wall cladding in which a reveal or bevel would expose contrasting color/texture tones not appropriate for the design.  

TONGUE AND GROOVE WITH A BEVEL: Our standard for most engineered products with pre finish. The Micro Bevel will reduce the prevalence of over-wood/under-wood (plank surfaces not lining up perfectly in thickness, normal to the living and moving qualities of wood) when you are installing pre-finished products.  

TONGUE AND GROOVE WITH REVEAL: Our standard for most wall Cladding products (though T&G - no bevel is a frequent choice too) because it eliminates the exposure of over-wood/under-wood in installation. This profile looks very much like shiplap with a reveal, but the T&G allows for concealed fasteners. Typically our reveals are a 1/4" square channel.

SHIPLAP affords wood to live and breath for exterior siding applications. It can be milled with or without a reveal. It is typically installed by nailing into the square channel in combination with face-nails near the top "lap" of the board. V-channel and pillowed edges may be customized.

SQUARE EDGE PLANK is the most simple & typically most economical profile. It is a simple flat edge as you'd expect for a simple plank. A square edge plank will typically be installed with pin nails through the face. 

Hardness is represented as a Janka rating, and the number equates to the amount of "pounds-force" required to push a steel ball (a little over 1/2" diameter) into the surface of the wood to half the diameter of the ball (or about 1/4" deep). 

The higher the number, the harder the wood. Typically woods with Janka hardness over 1800 have extreme durability. Those between 1200 and 1800 are readily used in high traffic environments, and will patina and surface compress less rapidly than woods between 600 and 1200. While Douglas Fir is perfectly acceptable as flooring with a rating of 660 (and can easily last 100 years or more), it is important to know softer woods will gain character more rapidly than their harder counterparts. Woods with Janka ratings around and under 1000 are considered to "patina in place" with surface impressions occurring readily in high-traffic environments. They are ideal in installations in which an aged patina and lively, rich texture are desired, or in areas exposed only to light traffic to preserve a smooth surface.

We've noticed the hardness of wood often correlates with density and resistance to flame. Refer to our table below on the Janka hardness of common wood species:

RELATIVE HARDNESS: SELECTED WOOD SPECIES

We believe you will get the best floor with a site-finish. Your finisher can make adjustments on-site, knock down over-wood/underwood, and can even do a glass-smooth finish blocking dust and moisture from working its way between boards.

There are times when a pre-finished product is the right choice, such as for value in an engineered product, simplicity of installation, or the type of application not benefiting from site-finish. Wall cladding will typically be pre-finished before it is installed, either by Anthology Woods or by the person installing. We work with commercial grade and low-VOC products wherever we can.

OIL FINISH: Anthology Woods loves oil finishes on most products. It is easier to maintain than polyurethane, easy to touch-up when it scratches, intensifies the color of the wood (and typically darkens it a bit more than a polyurethane will), and is typically available in healthier products. It also tends to allow the wood to age and patina gracefully, a little at a time. Oil finishes bond deeply with the wood fibers themselves. Oil finish is the most widely used finish world-wide.

POLYURETHANE: A poly finish offers the advantage of a harder surface, and can create a continuous barrier on the surface of a floor when site-finished. This helps guard against water or dust particles finding their way between or underneath the boards. Think of a poly finish as an added layer on top of your wood product.

UNFINISHED: It is very common to install wall and ceiling cladding unfinished. Many reclaimed wood products look great without any finish at all. The soft grays and browns in naturally weathered wood are often at their best when unfinished, and you'll see softer tones in re-milled wood left unfinished. As you consider this option for your project, keep in mind that unfinished wood, depending on what it is exposed to, will continue to grow in character and charm and evolve its look over time. Wine spilt on a rustic wood floor will tell its story for years to come, and we love a good story! It is very common to install cladding unfinished.  

Be sure you note whether you are looking at images and samples of finished or unfinished wood, as they will look different.

We feel that a matte finish will both showcase the honesty of the wood, as well as give you the best longevity for your look. A matte or super-matte finish will better minimize scratches and scuffs, while emphasizing the natural color and character of your wood. There are times a higher sheen is appropriate (often easier to clean), when it can highlight certain luminosities in some wood species.

CARE & MAINTENANCE

Dustmop, sweep, or vacuum regularly

Follow the finish manufacturer's directions for cleaning

Refinish when your desired look is no longer restored with cleaning.

DON'T wax over polyurethane finishes or use vinyl or tile floor care products on wood flooring.

Dustmop or vacuum regularly  

Maintain shine using a buffer (this helps if the floor is looking dull)

Clean according to the finish manufacturer’s directions

Wax when & where needed (typically once or twice per year)

If wax has discoloration or looks solid, use a liquid cleaner/wax combination for wood flooring (should be solvent-based) and follow manufacturer's instructions

DON'T contribute to wax buildup in low traffic areas (these can be waxed less often)

DON'T wet mop your waxed floor or allow water to sit on your floor

Use mats and rugs in higher traffic areas and entryways to protect wood floors (avoid rubber backs, they can discolor the floor)

Sweep often to remove grit and dirt

Place felt pads under furniture legs

Avoid walking on wood floors with cleats or high heels (a 125 pound person walking in high heels will impact the floor at 2000 pounds per square inch)

Maintain humidity between 30 and 50 percent RH to minimize cracks and gaps (some cracks and gaps are normal, but high variations in humidity can lead to bigger issues)

Minimizing exposure to direct sunlight may minimize color change

NWFA MAINTENANCE (PDF)

NWFA PROBLEMS, CAUSES & CURES (PDF)